11.9 square kilometres of land surrounded by endless sea

Runö, or Ruhnu in Estonian, rose from the Baltic Sea around 10 000 years ago. It took shape from sandy seabeds that formed the dunes, forests, and coastal meadows seen today. For centuries, it was home to coastal Swedes who lived in isolation, preserving their language, customs, and faith. Known in Swedish as Runö, Ruhnu has always been a world of its own.

In 1944, for the first time in centuries, the island fell silent — farms abandoned, houses empty, churches without their congregation. During the Soviet era, Ruhnu became a restricted border zone, accessible only with special permission. The island was later repopulated by Estonian settlers, many from neighbouring islands. The Soviets built military facilities, including a radar station and small airfield, and though life was isolated, a resilient community sustained itself through fishing, forestry, and farming.

After Estonia regained independence in 1991, properties were returned to families with pre-Soviet heritage claims, many living in Sweden, while newer residents also remained. The old Swedish houses and churches were restored, and Ruhnu’s layered history began to draw visitors, researchers, and artists.

Today, about 58 people live on Ruhnu year-round, making it Estonia’s smallest municipality by population. The close-knit community keeps the island alive with its school, two shops, two churches, a museum, a small harbour, and an airfield — continuing the story of an island that refuses to fade from memory.